Making the most of Madeira

Madeira is best known for its sub-tropical climate, beautiful gardens and lush mountainous terrain, a hotspot for walkers and nature lovers. A mere dot in the Atlantic Ocean, it’s a well-established port for cruise liners which is shaking off its reputation for sedate holidays as visitors discover its wild side

Portrait of Tammy Strobel
Madeira is best known for its sub-tropical climate, beautiful gardens and lush mountainous terrain, a hotspot for walkers and nature lovers. A mere dot in the Atlantic Ocean, it’s a well-established port for cruise liners which is shaking off its reputation for sedate holidays as visitors discover its wild side 
My Reading Room

Madeira is famous around the world for its cakes and fortified wine and has a gastronomic reputation that continues to grow with the opening of new hotels and restaurants. At just 56km long and 22km wide, the island boasts stunning flora, spectacular mountains and famous levadas trails. Known for more its slow tempo and gentle climate, Madeira has been popular with tourists since the 18th century. More recently it has gained a new and exciting reputation for wellness tourism.  

Located 500 km north-west of the coast of Africa, Madeira is the largest island in the subtropical Portuguese archipelago, with a population of just 245,000. The capital, Funchal is the starting point for most visits and boasts an array of gardens to visit including the renowned Botanic Gardens and the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens. Aside from historical sights, there are festivals throughout the year culminating in the New Year fireworks celebration. 

Away from the main tourist trail, things take a more adventurous direction where visitors follow the paths of the traditional levadas. Irrigation channels built to transport water from the north to the south of the island, levadas are carved into the mountains and provide the perfect setting for gentle walks which can extend to day-long treks. With stunning scenery and verdant forests, it’s a magical sight to behold. The more adventurous can try a sidecar tour of the island, join a jeep safari across the Paul da Serra or take a tandem paraglide flight. Scuba diving, canyoning and horse riding are just a few more of the adventure activities lined up for visitors. For the kids, there’s always the chance to head out to sea on a catamaran to spot whales and dolphins on their migration through the Atlantic. With seafood dominating the main meal followed by the sweet delights of locally grown bananas, honey cake and fortified sweet Madeira wine, it’s a food lovers’ paradise with something for everyone.  

Belmond Reid’s Palace 

The grand dame of Madeira’s hotel scene, Belmond Reid’s Palace embodies traditional luxury travel at its best. The premier luxury hotel retains a sense of history and style. exuding a genteel elegance, the hotel has rooms decorated in a classic style with every room looking out across the sea or gardens. Large bathrooms feature amenities by Penhaligon’s and a touch of english hospitality running through the service, which comes into its own at high tea on the terrace. It has a large spa, reported to be the best spa in Madeira, where guests can truly relax.    

Situated on its own private promontory on the edge of Madeira’s capital, Funchal, it’s just a few minutes walk to the centre of town, and has its own manicured gardens, two outdoor pools, sea access and bathing loungers by the water. There are a couple of restaurants on site but none as impressive as the iconic villa Cipriani, serving classic Italian food overlooking the sea and hotel. Dress to impress at the Belmond Reid’s Palace, cocktail hour is an event in itself and after dinner enjoy a drink in one of the bars, ideally looking out across the sea as the sun gently sets over the ocean. http://www.belmond.com

My Reading Room
Estalagem Ponta do Sol 

Situated on the sunny south side of the island, estalagem Ponta do Sol is a modern property, set on the top of a cliff with spectacular views along the coast. The hotel, a member of the Design hotels group, was renovated to blend the existing old quinta with new, ultra-modern hotel buildings in a distinct, contemporary style.  

The new and old blend seamlessly to provide a hotel that is sleek and futuristic while being warm and welcoming. The atmosphere is simple and relaxed, yet remains sophisticated. The outdoor infinity pool is eye catching and is the main hub for daytime relaxation with a poolside bar and sun loungers. The main restaurant serves local dishes with a contemporary twist and offers stunning views to the small town below and sea beyond. The rooms are simple, sleek and have everything you need for a comfortable stay. The vibe and ambiance is arty, friendly and cool chill-out beats ensure a happy vibe for guests at weekend events. Whether it’s relaxing by the pool, an afternoon swim in the sea or taking cocktails at sunset on the terrace, estalagem Ponta do Sol has it all. And adrenaline junkies rejoice – organised tours include walking, paragliding, canyoning and whale watching. http://www.pontadosol.com

Choupana Hills Resort and Spa  

Set in the countryside hills above Funchal, Choupana hills Resort and Spa is a luxury resort that takes its design inspiration from Asia. Just minutes from the Botanical Gardens, the resort is home to more than 200 different species of flora, spread over 17 hectares of land. It’s a world away from the hustle and bustle of the capital’s city streets and a true escape for mind, body and soul. 

The hotel features wood and stone as main building materials, interlined with African and Asian influences. Accommodation features bungalows built on stilts with mod cons including flat- screen Tv and Nespresso machines. The resort presents a choice of 62 bungalows which include deluxe and superior options, a few designed specifically for families. They all feature balconies with some enjoying views of the gardens and others built to make the most of the sea. The pool bar is where most guests gather during the heat of the day, after hours Restaurant Xôpana presents world- class cuisine serving fresh locally sourced produce. The Basalt Bar offers drinks and light snacks, while the Lounge allows for relaxed afternoon tea. 

Two swimming pools are located in the heart of the resort, a tropical outdoor lagoon pool overlooking Funchal and a heated indoor pool next to the spa area. The spa offers an array of relaxing and rejuvenating treatments inspired by Asian massage therapies and Ayurveda. http://www.choupanahills.pt

My Reading Room
Casa Velha Palheiro 

Steeped in history and in a gorgeous countryside setting, Casa velha Palheiro is an impressive five-star country house hotel set in woodlands, high above Funchal. Originally a hunting lodge, built as a summer residence in 1801, it retains its historical charm with beautifully furnished period pieces to complement Madeira prints and lithographs. A member of the Relais & Châteaux group, the hotel has just 32 rooms and five suites, each designed with its own sense of style. 

Nature lovers will enjoy the famous Palheiro Gardens next door and golfing fans are well catered for as the Palheiro Golf course is adjacent to the hotel on the estate. Offering a superb 18-hole, par 72 championship layout, guests enjoy privileged access. Taking tea and breakfast on the terrace is a joy and the hotel’s award-winning restaurant is highly recommended. Gentle walks through the gardens or lazing by the pool, days are relaxed at the Palheiro estate. Spa lovers can spend their time at The Palheiro Spa, where facilities include heated indoor and outdoor swimming pools, Turkish bath and sauna. To get the blood pumping there is a smart gym and an all-weather tennis court while the less energetic can play croquet on the lawn. http://www.casa-velha.com

Quinta Jardins do Lago 

Built in the 18th century, Quinta Jardins do Lago combines traditional comfort with history to make this elegant property one of Madeira’s finest. Renowned for its botanical gardens which boast more than 500 different species of plants covering an area of 2.5 hectares, it features rare species, old trees and an astounding display of colour from the delicate flowers. 

Its 31 double rooms, four historical Junior Suites and five Premier Suites all face south affording uninterrupted views of the gardens. The rooms retain a sense of Old World charm and design with the right balance of modern touches to ensure a comfortable and restful stay. Dining is a delight at the Beresford Restaurant highlighting the best of Madeiran cuisine. More relaxed is the Colombo bistro by the pool and the O visconde Bar. Breakfast is served in the Pink Room which opens to a verandah, featuring an exceptional 16th-century ceramic wall panel with garden seating surrounded by flowers. Make the most of the heated freshwater swimming pool, sun terraces, a well-equipped gym, sauna, Turkish bath, Jacuzzi croquet and table tennis. Its proximity to Funchal means that day trips are a breeze, either to the city or the rest of the island where tours can be arranged by the hotel, or you can hire a car for a more leisurely adventure. http://www.jardins-lago.pt

My Reading Room
The Vine Hotel  

Situated in the beating heart of downtown Funchal, the award- winning vine hotel is a boutique property that offers a stunning interpretation of the winemaking traditions of Madeira. Local interior designer Nini Andrade Silva has interpreted Madeira’s tradition of fortified wines in the context of the ultra-modern building by architects Ricardo Bofill and João Francisco Caires. The designer created a decor that reflects the richness and subtlety of a full-bodied wine. Furniture shaped like twisted vines in the Terra Restaurant and deep purple shades in the lobby set the tone. The theme of the vine has been woven into a modern, trendy design, with a different colour scheme reflecting the four seasons for rooms on each floor. With 57 guest rooms, the hotel includes 17 junior suites and five suites, all appointed to the highest standard.  

Dining at the hotel is a delight. Uva Restaurant and Wine Bar serves fabulous food overlooking a magical view across the rooftops and bay. Terra Lounge Restaurant highlights the best of Madeiran cuisine and there are three bars to enjoy cocktails and long tall drinks any time of the day. highlights include romantic private dining by candlelight by the pool, cooking lessons or rest and relaxation in the spa. The spa, naturally, picks up on the wine theme offering guests the chance to experience authentic vinotherapy treatments, created by Dvine from the Douro valley. http://www.hotelthevine.com

Quinta da Bela Vista 

Quinta da Bela vista is an award-winning small, luxury five-star hotel in the outskirts of Funchal. The 19th-century mansion is graced with wooden shutters and wrought-iron balconies, oozing with character and charm with its open fires, china-filled cabinets and antique furnishings. 

This exclusive hotel has 87 elegant rooms with a private balcony featuring views of the beautiful botanical gardens and views across Funchal Bay. From garden rooms to the penthouse, all are equipped with modern features, but the decor retains a sense of history in the traditional quinta, or country house style. The two hectares of gardens play host to the unique flora of the island. Guests can enjoy time relaxing in the sun by the outdoor heated pool with sundeck which is hidden away among lawns, fountains and flower-lined pathways. Smart wooden loungers line up along a wide sun terrace, offering  fantastic views of the surrounding countryside. Take some exercise playing tennis or working out in the gym followed by a steam or sauna to relax. Two restaurants and the pool snack bar ensure everyone is catered for, but the highlight is the Bela vista Restaurant in the main house where its international à la carte menu is highly recommended. http://www.belavistamadeira.com