Spending the festive season in Edinburgh is a capital idea
Spending the festive season in Edinburgh is a capital idea
Home to history, haggis, Harry Potter and Hogmanay, Edinburgh is a cosmopolitan, vibrant city that comes to life as temperatures plummet thanks to Christmas markets, festivals and the world’s biggest New Year’s Eve party.
Perched on a series of extinct volcanoes and rocky crags, Edinburgh can trace its history back to around the 17th century. In the intervening centuries it has picked up a few nicknames, including ‘Auld Reekie’ (‘Old Smokey’) thanks to the coal-fire induced haze that is said to have hung over the city, the ‘Modern Athens’ and ‘the Athens of the North’. Sir Walter Scott called it “yon Empress of the North” and Robert Louis Stevenson went a step further by declaring that “Edinburgh is what Paris ought to be”.
A city renowned for its festivals, Christmas And New Year is when the city really comes to life. The sun sets in the late afternoon towards the end of the year, but this gives rise to plenty of opportunities to see sit with a wee dram in front of a fire and enjoy a true winter experience.
Christmas in Edinburgh lasts about six weeks and starts in late November, and in that time you can expect live shows, music, ice skating, Christmas markets, and lots of festive lights.
Then there is Hogmanay, the most Scottish of celebrations that ushers in the New Year. The three-day festival includes live music, art, theatre, fireworks and the chance to participate in the world’s biggest rendition of Auld Lang Syne as the bells ring out at midnight on December 31.
GEOGRAPHY
Prince’s Street is the city’s main artery, and along with a few key landmarks, you should have no trouble finding your way around this ancient city. Chief among those landmarks are the two imposing figures at either end of the Royal Mile, the main thoroughfare of the city’s Old Town.
The Holyroodhouse, which sits at the east end of the Mile, is the Queen’s official residence. A collection of monastic buildings that James Iv decided to convert into a palace, the Queen is in residence during Holyrood week, which usually takes place from the end of June to the beginning of July. An audio tour will give you the lowdown on the important events that have taken place over the centuries involving the dozen monarchs that have called it home.
At the other end of the Mile is the imposing Edinburgh Castle, but before tackling the Castle you might consider lunch. Three quarters of the way up the Mile towards the castle you will cross George Iv bridge, and on the right hand side you will find the Outsider. Serving good food at prices that belie its quality, it’s a great place for a lunch pit stop during a busy day of sightseeing. Their mussels with french fries are fantastic and, dare I say, better than many belgian offerings of moule frites. Reservations are recommended for dinner or if you want to sit in the table with a great view of the castle at lunchtime.
Back on the Royal Mile and to Edinburgh Castle. Dominating the skyline, the castle is the jewel in Edinburgh’s tourism crown, and from its ramparts the city stretches out in front of you. The approach is something of a gauntlet of souvenir hawkers and street performers touting for your business, but once inside, an air of history takes over and even though the castle will likely be busy, it is easy to get a sense of its history. A formidable fortification thanks to its lofty location, the castle is home to several key buildings including the Royal Palace where Queen Mary of Guise died and her daughter, Mary Queen of Scots, gave birth to James vI in 1566.
At the centre of the castle complex is the Great Hall. With a magnificent wooden roof, the hall has played host to numerous banquets and ceremonies. It was also a barracks for a period. And that is just the beginning. It is possible to spend at least half a day exploring the castle where you can learn about the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh, see the One O’Clock Gun fire, visit the Scottish National War Memorial and find out just what the Stone of Destiny is.
For some more recent history, head north-east of the city to Leith’s Ocean Terminal. Here you will find the now decommissioned Royal Yacht britannia. The former floating residence of the Queen and the Royal family for over 40 years, the yacht sailed over 1,000,000 miles around the world before being retired in 1997. britannia is grand, but a combination of changing times, definitions of luxury and the Queen’s apparent insistence that the yacht have the feel of a country home, means that it is more impressive for its layout and what is crammed inside than it is for its opulence. Among other things you will find an industrial laundry, an infirmary, dining rooms for crew members, as well of course as the state dining room that can seat almost 100 for dinner, and has hosted world leaders.
One thing book lovers will know is that Edinburgh has given rise to some of literature’s greatest writers. Among the famous authors who are from or have called the city home are Sir Walter Scott, Arthur Conan Doyle, Robert Louis Stevenson, and Jk Rowling, who wrote the Harry Potter series in Edinburgh (The Elephant House on George Iv bridge is where the boy wizard was ‘born’). In 2004, the city became the world’s first UNESCO City of Literature, and hosts the world’s largest book festival, the Edinburgh International book festival, every August.
Perhaps most famous for its festivals, there is one on every month of the year, with many concentrated in the latter half of the year including Edinburgh festival fringe, the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, the Edinburgh International festival, the Edinburgh Art festival.
WHERE TO STAY
94dr
The centre of Edinburgh is split into the Old Town and New Town (which together form a UNESCO World Heritage Site), with the latter being north of the former which is home to the castle et al. A 15- to 20-minute walk from the Royal Mile (or a short bus, taxi or Uber ride) south of the Old Town is 94DR, a fantastic boutique hotel in a beautiful victorian town house. Part of the blacket Conservation Area, 94 Dalkeith Road (hence DR) is run by chef-turned-hotelier Paul and businessman Mark.
With six well-appointed rooms featuring muted greys, luxurious fabrics and a warm environment, 94DR truly is boutique. In addition to the three rooms types at 94DR, there is the Wee Dram, a small room that is ‘the ultimate kid’s bedroom’ with bunk beds, skylight, toy chest and plasma Tv/ DvD Player with Xbox, perfect for families.
The front-facing rooms have views over Salisbury Crags and Arthur’s Seat, the highest of the group of hills, while those to the rear enjoy a peaceful outlook over a private garden. A five-minute walk will deposit you at the base of Arthur’s Seat for a morning ramble to earn your Scottish breakfast.
Paul is a trained chef and so even if you decide to take his and Mark’s sage advice and dine at the city’s great restaurants, you are still assured a good breakfast. Porridge and the full Scottish are essential if you have never tried them – and hard to resist if you have. And don’t be put off by the thought of haggis and black pudding, when made and cooked correctly, they are both fantastic. http://www.94dr.com
Nira Caledonia
On the other side of town is the Nira Caledonia. Operated by Nira Hotels & Resorts, it is one of just four properties in the group. Situated among the cobbled streets of Gloucester Place in Edinburgh’s New Town, the hotel wears the boutique tag well as luxury and intimacy come together with friendly but professional staff, good food and comfortable, yet not pretentious lodging.
Occupying two Georgian townhouses, the 28-room hotel, or at least a part of it, was once the home of literary figure John Wilson. Acquired by Nira Hotels in 2011, it underwent a refurbishment before opening in January 2012. Some original Georgian features were preserved while contemporary furnishings give it a modern, luxurious feel without overdoing the Scottishness, so don’t expect to see tartan sheets or stuffed deer heads. Each of the 28 rooms (nine of which are suites) retain typical Georgian features such as high ceilings, dado rails and sash windows. Touches of luxury include antique rugs, ornate gold mirrors and modish armchairs.
The food at the Nira is as Scottish as it comes. Sourced as much as is possible from Scotland to keep food miles to minimum, blackwood’s has a Josper grill which uses charcoal to cook at very high temperatures, meaning steaks have a crust yet remain juicy and mussels take on a hint of smoke. blackwood’s offers a combination of traditional Scottish dishes and ingredients as well as more international offerings that utilise the exquisite local produce.
The Nira is also within walking distance of Prince’s Street yet it still feels somewhat secluded among the Georgian Townhouses of the New Town, making it perfect for a luxurious escape without actually being too far from anywhere.
Balmoral Hotel
Located in the heart of the city and seemingly in every photograph of the skyline is the balmoral Hotel. The preeminent old lady (well one of them) of the hospitality industry in Edinburgh, the balmoral is located at number 1 Prince’s Street and it was here that Jk Rowling finished writing Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows according to a handwritten message on a bust of Hermes in what is now called the Jk Rowling Suite.
Apparently the balmoral’s traditional rival has always been the Caledonian Hotel. More properly called the Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh – The Caledonian, it opened just a year after the balmoral in 1903 and is another beautiful property in the heart of the city, this time at the west end of Prince’s Street. http://www.roccofortehotels.com
Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh
A listed building, the Caledonian underwent a refurbishment five years ago and has, according to the hotel’s website, the largest bathrooms of any hotel in Edinburgh. The ‘Caley’, as it is known, is also home to the Uk’s only Guerlain Spa. With lots of awards for its hotel, spa and dining, it’s a great spot in the heart of the city.
http://www.waldorfastoriaedinburgh.com
The Bonham
finally there is the four-star The bonham. A boutique hotel also in the city’s west end, the bonham is in a leafy crescent but still very much in the thick of it all. With 49 individually designed rooms and original architecture, The bonham, much like the Nira Caledonia, brings boutique and bespoke together effortlessly.
http://www.townhousecompany.com
‘WE HAE MEAT AND WE CAN EAT’
The words of Robert burns come good in Edinburgh as there are very fine places to eat. In addition to four Michelin-starred restaurants, there is a wealth of other places serving Scotland’s famed seafood.
Devil’s Advocate is a very stylish warehouse-type conversion bar and restaurant in the heart of the Old Town. Serving classic dishes with a twist, fish and chips are great for a light lunch, with a light, crunchy batter and thin and equally crunchy fries. The haggis bonbons come highly recommended too.
The Mussel and Steak bar in the city’s historic Grassmarket area (a stone’s throw from the Castle) looks as if it might be a tourist trap, but the mussels were exquisite. One of many places to serve mussels, this is as good as any.
For higher-end dining, there are the aforementioned Michelin-starred restaurants. The kitchin, which opened in 2006, offers modern british seasonal cuisine influenced Wishart. Opened in 1999, it is situated in Edinburgh’s historic Port of Leith. Sixteen years later and the restaurant continues to bring the best traditional and modern french cuisine to Edinburgh using the finest Scottish ingredients. In 2001, Restaurant Martin Wishart received its first star.
No article about Scotland would be complete without a mention of whisky, which is a great foil for the country’s wintry weather, but for those who prefer the bitter taste of juniper instead of the often peaty notes of Scotch, try Edinburgh Gin. The distillery, in the heart of the city at Rutland Place, has a visitors’ centre where you can see the gin being made and sample it too.
